Curious how potters create those smoky, fire-kissed finishes using saggar firing? In this hands-on guide, I’ll walk you through the exact tools, materials, and techniques I use in my studio to get bold surface effects from saggar-fired pots. You’ll also get a peek inside my latest e-book, Saggar Firing Secrets, now available. Whether you’re firing in a propane barrel or foil-wrapping pots for your raku kiln, this guide will help you avoid beginner mistakes and start creating pots with real fire-born personality.
Saggar Firing Techniques, Tools & Studio Tips
Discover how ceramic artists use smoke, fire, and saggar chambers to create stunning surface effects and get the full studio-tested guide by (me) Ed Shears.
What is it and Why Use It?
This technique is a ceramic surface technique where pots are enclosed in a protective container or saggar and fired with combustible materials that produce smoke, fumes, and reactive effects. Instead of applying a glaze, you’re essentially wrapping your pot in an atmosphere of chaos and letting the fire do the decorating. It’s smoky, unpredictable, and endlessly fascinating.
Traditionally, saggars were used to protect pots from ash and direct flame inside wood-fired kilns. Today, we’ve flipped the script. Modern potters use fireclay boxes, metal containers, or even heavy-duty aluminum foil to trap materials like copper wire, salt, and seaweed right against the pot’s surface. The results? Ghostly black shadows, vibrant copper flashes, and one-of-a-kind patterns no glaze can replicate.
About my E-Book: Saggar Firing Secrets
I wrote this e-book because while magical, can also be completely maddening when you don’t know what you’re doing. I burned through more than a few pots (and brain cells) figuring out what works in real-world studio conditions so I decided to document the full process.
This guide is for ceramic artists who want more than just inspiration. It’s for the hands-on folks who want to try this technique without wasting six firings trying to decode cryptic tutorials. Whether you’re using a raku barrel, propane rig, or small electric kiln, this book is your fire-tested blueprint.
🧠 What You’ll Learn:
- How to prep your clay, burnish it, and use terra sigillata for killer effects
- What materials give you copper reds, smoky trails, greens, and ghostly streaks
- How to build both foil and fireclay saggars, with their pros and cons
- My personal 3-stage firing process that works in propane or raku kilns
- A full troubleshooting section for when your results are “meh”
- Post-firing cleanup, sealing, and finishing methods to make your pots gallery-ready
- A studio gear checklist with my go-to tools
- When to experiment and when to quit before you ruin a good pot
✅ Instant download
💻 PDF format optimized for desktop or mobile
💸 → Download from Shop.Artabys.com
📚 What’s Inside my Guide
| Chapter | Description |
|---|---|
| Foundations of Saggar Firing | What it is, how it evolved, and why potters use it today |
| Materials & Prep | Clay body choices, burnishing, terra sigillata, and saggar types |
| The Firing Process | Ed’s 3-stage burn method + what to pack inside your saggar |
| Ferric Chloride Breakdown | How to handle this wild card chemical (safely and effectively) |
| Surface Effects & Troubleshooting | Read your results and fix common issues |
| Finishing & Studio Tricks | Clean, seal, and display your pot like a pro |
| Studio Tool Checklist | Gear that actually makes a difference in saggar success |
Frequently Asked Questions
💬 Who is this e-book for?
If you’ve ever wrapped a pot in foil, lit a propane burner, or stared at a smoky lump wondering what went wrong you’re exactly who I wrote this for. Whether you’re a beginner curious about alternative firing or a handbuilder looking to push your surfaces, this guide’s got your back.
💬 Do I need a big fancy kiln to use this?
Nope. I show you how to fire saggar pots using a raku setup, propane barrel, or even small outdoor kilns. If it gets hot and holds a pot, you’re in business.
💬 What’s inside, exactly?
You’ll get a 22 page illustrated PDF that walks you through every step from clay prep to post-firing finish. It includes materials lists, firing temps, troubleshooting advice, surface effect charts, and a printable studio checklist.
💬 Is this beginner-friendly?
Yep. If you know how to bisque fire and have a basic understanding of kiln safety, you’re good to go. I keep the chemistry talk simple, and the advice comes from years in a working studio not a lecture hall.
💬 Will I need special chemicals or tools?
You’ll need some common materials (like copper carbonate, ferric chloride, sawdust, etc.) and studio basics like gloves, foil, and a way to fire. I include a full gear list in the book with tips on where to find what.
💬 Can I read this on my phone or tablet?
You bet. The PDF is formatted for easy reading on desktop, tablet, or mobile zoom, swipe, highlight away.
💬 What if I’ve already tried saggar firing and failed?
Perfect. That means you’re ready to learn what actually works. I’ve packed the book with fail points, fixes, and examples based on real studio misfires (most of them mine).
💬 Is it safe to buy from Shop.Artabys.com?
Absolutely. Shop.Artabys.com does not collect or store any of your credit card data. All payments are securely processed through trusted third-party providers like Stripe or PayPal. Your info stays safe, and your e-book gets delivered instantly.
My First Saggar Firing (And What I Got Wrong)
I still remember my first time like it was yesterday mostly because my entire garage smelled like burnt popcorn and hot metal for a week.
Back then, I’d read just enough to be dangerous. I wrapped a bisque pot in aluminum foil, tossed in some sawdust, copper wire, and a dash of salt, and fired it in a raku barrel like I knew what I was doing. No plan. No notes. Just fire and hope.
The result? A cracked, soot-stained lump with barely a whisper of color. Turns out I packed the saggar way too loose. The materials didn’t sit close enough to the pot, so the atmosphere never developed. Basically, I gave the fire nothing to react with and it gave me nothing back.
That first “fail” taught me one of the golden rules: tight wrap = strong results. The closer your combustibles are to the pot, the more dramatic the effect. You’re not just loading a kiln you’re building a chemical chamber.
Since then, I’ve scorched a few more pots, wrapped a dozen like sad burritos, and slowly figured out how to make the fire work with me instead of against me. And if you want to skip those learning curve bruises, well… that’s what the e-book is for.
Materials That React in the Fire
When it comes to this technique, your materials are your palette and your fire is the brush. Here’s a breakdown of the usual suspects I load into my saggars:
- Copper Carbonate → 🔥 Fiery reds, oranges, and occasionally turquoise halos
Great for bold, high-impact results when placed close to the pot. - Ferric Chloride → 🧪 Rusty reds, smoky black streaks, and shimmering metallics
A little goes a long way and always handle it with gloves and a mask. - Seaweed → 🌿 Ghostly greens and soft diffusion zones
Best results with wet seaweed pressed directly against terra sigillata. - Salt → 🧂 Intensifies other reactions, adds flash zones
Think of it as your fire’s seasoning blend. - Sawdust / Wood Shavings → 🪵 Rich smoky backgrounds and carbon trapping
Base layer material. Helps fuel a strong reduction atmosphere. - Iron Filings → ⚙️ Speckled, black dots or rusty orange bursts
Toss them in dry or press into surface textures.
“You’re not glazing you’re creating a chemical atmosphere around your pot.” – Ed Shears
My Go-To Saggar Tools (And Where to Get Them)
You don’t need a thousand-dollar setup to get killer saggar results just the right tools and a studio that smells a little like smoke and victory. These are the saggar essentials I actually use, abuse, and recommend to anyone ready to fire like they mean it.
Affiliate Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you buy through some links on this page, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Every tool I recommend has been tested in real studio conditions.
🔄 Lazy Susan Turntable
What it’s for:
Waxing, sealing, and even surface inspection post-firing.
Why I love it:
No more smudging or overhandling. You can rotate the pot without chasing it across your workbench.
👉 Here’s a solid one I recommend →
🧤 Rubber-Coated Gloves
What it’s for:
Unwrapping foil saggars, handling hot gear, cleaning soot without losing your grip.
Pro tip:
Pick a pair with textured fingertips less slip, more precision when working fast.
👉 Shop my go-to gloves →
🧻 Heavy-Duty Aluminum Foil
What it’s for:
DIY saggar construction the flexible armor that wraps your pot and holds the magic.
Ed’s Take:
Go extra wide and heavy. Cheap foil rips under heat or tension.
👉 This is the foil I use →
🗣️ Reader Testimonials
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
“Loved the checklist helped me nail my second firing. My copper reds actually popped this time.”
– Jenn L., weekend potter from Oregon
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
“Finally! A saggar guide that talks like a real potter. The foil wrap technique alone saved me a ton of trial and error.”
– Carlos M., Raku enthusiast